The manifold on one of my Dodge M37s was in terrible shape with a couple of cracks I decided to replace it, the part numbers below also apply to the 230 in the Power Wagon also.

Note if you are installing a new intake or exhaust manifold you will probably need to have them machine together as a unit so they mount flat against the block.  The forum posting here shows what it looks like when they are out of plane. 

	The exhaust was cracked almost all the way through on the right and fell apart as it was removed.
	Heat riser repair kit from Midwest Military also includes the riser flap not shown.  The stud is 1/4” x 1” with 28 tpi on one end and 20 tpi on the manifold end.
	The heat riser shaft didn’t include the W for winter and S for summer so I used an inexpensive steel stamping set from Harbor Freight.
	The original stud broke during removal, I drilled the old stud out and tapped it with a 1/4” 20NF tap.
	Using my new favorite tool this Snap On Stud Remover/Installer makes it pretty easy to install studs without damaging the threads.
	The manual states that the heat riser shaft should be cooled with dry ice, not having any handy I just left it in the freezer for an hour.  Installation was a tight fit. Next step was to weld the heat riser flap to the shaft, I used a file to hold the flap in position for welding.
	Post welding.
	After removing all of the studs, 2 of which broke I installed all new hardware.  To replace all of the studs you need 11 of Dorman 657-003 and 2 of 675-083.
	To prevent the manifold from cracking after installation it’s important to use the brass bushings and tapered nuts (4 each).  Both are available from Vintage Power Wagons.
	Manifold and carb after installation.