Dodge M37 Manifold Replacement

The manifold on one of my Dodge M37s was in terrible shape with a couple of cracks I decided to replace it, the part numbers below also apply to the 230 in the Power Wagon also.

Note if you are installing a new intake or exhaust manifold you will probably need to have them machine together as a unit so they mount flat against the block.  The forum posting here shows what it looks like when they are out of plane. 

	The exhaust was cracked almost all the way through on the right and fell apart as it was removed.
	Heat riser repair kit from Midwest Military also includes the riser flap not shown.  The stud is 1/4” x 1” with 28 tpi on one end and 20 tpi on the manifold end.
	The heat riser shaft didn’t include the W for winter and S for summer so I used an inexpensive steel stamping set from Harbor Freight.
	The original stud broke during removal, I drilled the old stud out and tapped it with a 1/4” 20NF tap.
	Using my new favorite tool this Snap On Stud Remover/Installer makes it pretty easy to install studs without damaging the threads.
	The manual states that the heat riser shaft should be cooled with dry ice, not having any handy I just left it in the freezer for an hour.  Installation was a tight fit. Next step was to weld the heat riser flap to the shaft, I used a file to hold the flap in position for welding.
	Post welding.
	After removing all of the studs, 2 of which broke I installed all new hardware.  To replace all of the studs you need 11 of Dorman 657-003 and 2 of 675-083.
	To prevent the manifold from cracking after installation it’s important to use the brass bushings and tapered nuts (4 each).  Both are available from Vintage Power Wagons.
	Manifold and carb after installation.

Broken bolt, stud or screw removal

If you have ever worked on vintage or even brand new machinery eventually you will break a bolt or a stud.  Below are various methods I’ve used to remove them.

Welding a nut on a broken stud

	While removing an intake manifold from a 60 year old Power Wagon 3 of the 4 bolts broke, luckily the other 2 still had exposed threads and were no problem to remove by threading on a nut and welding the center. Unfortunately the last one broke flush, first step is to grind off enough metal to expose bare steel to weld on.
	Next place a washer that has a hole the same or slightly smaller diameter than the broken stud.
	Using a welder weld the washer to the top of the broken stud.  Be sure to grind off the slag before the next step.
	Place a nut that is as large as possible on top of the welded washer.
	After welding the nut is glowing red hot, the heat helps loosen the broken stud.
	After about a minute the stud has cooled enough to use a wrench to extract the stud.  The nut isn’t perfectly centered but still the stud came out.
	The finished product is an undamaged bolt hole that doesn’t have to be drilled and tapped.

M37 T245 Engine Rebuild

Parts and Supplies:

M37 Steering Knuckle Rebuild

I started with gathering parts and information, this link from Paul’s rebuild has lots of good info.  Vermont Salvage no longer carries any of the knuckle parts and sold his remaining stock to Midwest Military so that’s where I got knuckle seal and axle bushings.  I ordered the bearings and races from Rock Auto.

Parts and Supplies:

• Tapered Bearing (Timken 23100 x 4, $16 ea)
• Bearing Race (Timken 23256 x 4, $10 ea)
• Inner Axle Seal (NAPA 14864 x 2, $8 ea)
• Axle Shaft Seal I.D. : 1.5"
• Axle Shaft Seal O.D. : 2.066"
• Axle Shaft Seal Width : .313"
• 5 lb Premium Grease (I used Royal Purple UPG)

If you are replacing hardware:

S – 1/2” x 1 1/4” – 13 (Self locking steering arm bolts x 4)
AA – 1/2” x 1” - 13 (Lower bearing cap bolts x 4)
EE – 1/2” x 2” – 20 (Upper and lower flange bolts x 4)

Tools Needed:

Split bearing puller. (Harbor Freight had the same kit as others for less.)
Slide hammer puller. (Any puller that can pull from the inside would work just as well, the OTC 6540 worked great.)

Axle Diagram:

Wear Tolerances:

FF – Axle Bushings 1.519 to 1.521 with 1.526 being the wear limit.

Torque Values:

EE – 80-85 ft/lbs
S, AA – 60-80 ft/lbs

M37 Brakes

Part numbers:

Wheel cylinders left (Driver’s) - NAPA 3595
Wheel cylinders right (Passenger) – NAPA 3596

Flex lines front - NAPA UBP4000 (3 required)
Flex line rear - NAPA UBP4900 (1 required)
These lines do not have the line armor like the originals.

Master cylinder – NAPA UP 544

Ordering from one of the parts suppliers here will save you money compared to NAPA’s prices and they can also provide brake shoes.

Brakes schematic:

My brake shoe anchor bolts were seized so I used a C Frame Press readily available from Harbor Freight to press them out.  The press shown below made fairly quick work of removal.

the anchors are held in by 5/8”-18 nuts with lock washers, I replaced those since the originals were fairly rusty.

M37 Rear Hub Rebuild

Part numbers for the bearings and races:

Inner Bearing – Timken 28682
Outer Bearing – Timken 2984
Inner Bearing Race – Timken 28622
Outer Bearing Race – Timken 2924

Inner Seal – National 417485
Outer Seal – National 6077

Exploded view of the rear axle for reference.

I used a 2 jaw puller to get the inner seal out of the hub, it’s a lot easier than using a drift punch from the other side.  It also reduces the chances of damaging the bearing or race.

Jeep TJ Rear D44 Axle Seal and Bearing Replacement

Parts Required:

• Axle retaining nuts and bolts x 8 Chrysler part 5080665AA (Do not reuse the old bolts and nuts, the nuts I got from a hardware store, they are 3/8” x 24 thread lock nuts.)
• Bearing, bearing retainer and axle seal x 2 (Randy’s Ring and Pinion, about $100 with shipping.)
• RTV
• Brake or other high temperature grease

Tools Required:

• Torque wrench
• Metric box wrench set
• Dead blow hammer (Only if your rotors are stuck)
• Spring hook tool
• C clamp

Torque Values:

• Caliper bolts – 11 ft/lb
• Lug nuts – 85 – 115 ft/lb

	After removing the wheels compress the caliper using a C clamp, this will make removing and installing the caliper easier.
	Remove the caliper bolts then remove the caliper by pulling at the bottom perpendicular to the axle.  Use a zip tie to secure the caliper so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.
	With the caliper out of the way remove the rotor, if it’s stuck you can use a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to provide some persuasion.
	Remove the spring using the spring hook tool. Next remove the adjuster and the two hold down clips.
	Remove the return spring, then the parking brake shoes by pulling them away perpendicular to the axle.
	Remove the retaining plate nuts, as you can see mine were coated in differential lube where the axle seal failed. Pull firmly on the end of the axle shaft and it should pull out, the bearing race may stay in the end of the axle housing, you should be able to pull it out by hand.
	Clean up the brake parts with degreaser and brake cleaner, be sure not to get any breaker cleaner on any of the painted or rubber parts.
	I took my shafts to a machine shop and had them remove the bearing retainer and bearing and install the new parts. If you have a drill press the bearing retainer can be removed by drilling a 3/8” hole in the retainer then using a chisel to crack and remove the retainer. The bearing can be removed using a splitter and shop press.
	Put a thin coat of axle grease on the inner surface of the seal before installing it on the axle shaft. Before installing the axle shaft put a thin coating of RTV on the axle seal to help ensure a leak free seal.
	During assembly be sure to lube the caliper bolts and anti-rattle clips with brake or high temperature grease.

Honda Ridgeline Door Lock Actuator Replacement

My passenger side door lock died a slow death and finally stopped working, after picking up the service manual on eBay I decided to give repairing the lock myself a go.  This procedure is for the passenger side door, the driver side will be similar but not identical because of the lock cylinder.

Parts Required:

• Passenger side door lock actuator 72115-SDA-A01
• Driver side door lock actuator 72155-SDA-A01

Tools Required:

• Trim pad remover (I picked one up at Sears for $8)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat head screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket

	Lower window glass fully then remove the mirror mount cover by pulling at the top and lifting up.
	Pull back the inner handle and push in on the notch at the bottom, this will pop out the cover.
	Remove the 2 bolts holding the inner handle then remove the handle.
	On the backside of the inner handle is the inner handle cable, rotate the blue cable latch 90 degrees and then remove the cable latch head and pull out on the green retainer.
	Remove the pull pocket lid then remove the phillips screw.
	Remove the 3 screws behind the inner door handle.
	Now remove the 8 trim pad clips with the trim pad remover tool.  Once all 8 pads are removed start with the back of door panel and pull upward, be sure not to use too much force. The door panel should come off without too much effort, once it does unplug the door switch harness and courtesy light plug.
	Raise window glass fully and pull away the white plastic sheet starting with the end by the lock, only pull it back halfway.
	With the plastic sheet our of the way remove the glass channel retainer bolt, then remove the retainer by pulling down until it is completely off the rubber channel.
	Disconnect the outer handle rod, first rotate the plastic retainer clip 90 degrees then pull the rod out.
	Remove the screw securing the lock knob and the 2 clips holding the inner handle cable.
	Detach the actuator connectors and cable clip.
	Remove the 3 screws holding the latch and remove the latch through the hole in the door.
	The latch mechanism.
	Remove the plastic access cover to allow access to the lock actuator.
	Once the access cover is removed you can see the lock actuator and the screw that holds it in place.
	Rotate the purple retainer clip and remove the door lock cable, next remove the actuator retainer screw.
	Now that disassembly is complete install the new actuator and reassemble the door.

NP200 Transfer Case Rebuild

Here is an outline of my rebuild with notes. 

Special thanks to Damien Civiello who loaned me the spacer necessary for setting up the idler gear pre load and shared what he learned during his rebuild.  His forum post can be found here.

Parts and Supplies Required:

• Power Train manual, I wouldn’t start without it (Hard copy available from Faxon Auto Literature, digital copy available from Military Manuals)
• NP200 Rebuild Kit (TCK-200 from DC Trucks, $255 shipped.)
  If you want to buy parts ala cart here are the numbers:
  • Yoke seals - National 410308 x 4 (Double lip, double case heavy duty), Redi-Sleeve 99212 x 4
  • Shift shaft seals – National 6835S x 2, Redi-Sleeve 99076 x 2
  • Idler bearings – National 2793 & 2720
  • Output shaft bearings – National 3720, 2793, 3780 & 2720
  • Low gear roller bearing – National C1960Q
  • Output shaft pilot bearing - QBR23549
• Shim Pack (McMaster-Carr, part number 3088A939, the shims included in the rebuild kit doesn’t have all the sizes needed.)
• Anaerobic Gasket Maker (Permatex)
• RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (Permatex, used on the shift shaft seals and to seal the yoke splines to prevent leakage around the shafts.)
• Thread Sealer (Permatex, used on studs that go through to the inside of the transfer case.)
• Mechanics wire, approximately 0.03" (Harbor Freight, stainless so it won't rust.)
• Glyptol (If you plan on blasting the inside this is the sealant to use, $50 from Eastwood.)
• Stainless steel shift shafts (M Series Rebuild, $100 each x 2)
• Hardened hi/low thrust washer (M Series Rebuild, $100)

Tools Required:

• 2 Jaw Puller for removing the yokes.
• Press for bearing removal and bearing/race installation.
• Bearing race and seal driver. (Harbor Freight, the kit doesn’t include a race driver for the larger race in the NP200 so I just ground down one of the old races and used that to seat them.)
• Brass drift. (Harbor Freight, used to drive out the old races.)
• Torque wrench in the 140-160 foot pounds range.
• Torque wrench in the 15-30 inch pounds range. (I bought Park Tool TW-1 $35, cheap and accurate.)
• 1 5/16” socket for removing the slotted yoke nuts.
• Spanner Pin wrench for holding the yokes when tightening the yoke nuts.
• Idler Gear Dummy Shaft (Quad 4x4 sells T2013, it’s useful for removal of the idler shaft but it’s too long to fit in the case when doing the installation, so a socket and extension will work just as well for removal.)
• Spacer for setting idler gear bearing pre load.

NP200 schematic:

	The case had 55+ years of oil and dirt stuck to it, pressure washing only got it about half way clean.  A combination of a putty knife, parts washer and hot water with degreaser finished the job. This took longer than expected, I’m not sure if there is a better way to remove the dirt and oil.
	2 jaw puller removing output shaft yoke.
	Input shaft, shift fork and idler gear.
	Shift shaft spring and poppet.
	Shift fork, you can see the lock wire holding the set bolt in place.
	Input shaft.
	Shift fork.
	The two speed clutch gear, inner and outer teeth were fairly chewed up which explained why the shift forks had gouges as the operator would push harder and harder to get the transfer case into hi/low.
	Eastwood’s 2 part epoxy primer applied to the cleaned, blasted and cleaned again parts. The primer sprayed on easily and I was pleased with the results.
	I used Eastwood’s 2K Chassis Black Satin for the top coat, so far it seems pretty durable.
	Assembly begins with installation of the idler gear, then the input shaft as shown on the left.
	Output shaft installed.
	Removing the installation lip from a Redi-Sleeve, the yoke had a groove worn in it from the original seal, the Redi-Sleeve is stainless steel and provides a perfect sealing surface. A little anaerobic gasket maker under the sleeve fills the groove so the Redi-Sleeve won’t deform.
	The mostly finished product.

M37 Number 3

Sure it’s missing a fuel pump, right front fender, headlight, batteries and windows but that’s original factory paint baby!