M37 Steering Knuckle Rebuild
I started with gathering parts and information, this link from Paul’s rebuild has lots of good info. Vermont Salvage no longer carries any of the knuckle parts and sold his remaining stock to Midwest Military so that’s where I got knuckle seal and axle bushings. I ordered the bearings and races from Rock Auto.
Parts and Supplies:
Tapered Bearing (Timken 23100 x 4, $16 ea)
Bearing Race (Timken 23256 x 4, $10 ea)
Inner Axle Seal (NAPA 14864 x 2, $8 ea)
Axle Shaft Seal I.D. : 1.5"
Axle Shaft Seal O.D. : 2.066"
Axle Shaft Seal Width : .313"
5 lb Premium Grease (I used Royal Purple UPG)
If you are replacing hardware:
S – 1/2” x 1 1/4” – 13 (Self locking steering arm bolts x 4)
AA – 1/2” x 1” - 13 (Lower bearing cap bolts x 4)
EE – 1/2” x 2” – 20 (Upper and lower flange bolts x 4)
Tools Needed:
Split bearing puller. (Harbor Freight had the same kit as others for less.)
Slide hammer puller. (Any puller that can pull from the inside would work just as well, the OTC 6540 worked great.)
Axle Diagram:
Wear Tolerances:
FF – Axle Bushings 1.519 to 1.521 with 1.526 being the wear limit.
Torque Values:
EE – 80-85 ft/lbs
S, AA – 60-80 ft/lbs
M37 Brakes
Part numbers:
Wheel cylinders left (Driver’s) - NAPA 3595
Wheel cylinders right (Passenger) – NAPA 3596
Flex lines front - NAPA UBP4000 (3 required)
Flex line rear - NAPA UBP4900 (1 required)
These lines do not have the line armor like the originals.
Master cylinder – NAPA UP 544
Ordering from one of the parts suppliers here will save you money compared to NAPA’s prices and they can also provide brake shoes.
Brakes schematic:
My brake shoe anchor bolts were seized so I used a C Frame Press readily available from Harbor Freight to press them out. The press shown below made fairly quick work of removal.
the anchors are held in by 5/8”-18 nuts with lock washers, I replaced those since the originals were fairly rusty.
M37 Rear Hub Rebuild
Part numbers for the bearings and races:
Inner Bearing – Timken 28682
Outer Bearing – Timken 2984
Inner Bearing Race – Timken 28622
Outer Bearing Race – Timken 2924
Inner Seal – National 417485
Outer Seal – National 6077
Exploded view of the rear axle for reference.
I used a 2 jaw puller to get the inner seal out of the hub, it’s a lot easier than using a drift punch from the other side. It also reduces the chances of damaging the bearing or race.
Jeep TJ Rear D44 Axle Seal and Bearing Replacement
Parts Required:
- Axle retaining nuts and bolts x 8 Chrysler part 5080665AA (Do not reuse the old bolts and nuts, the nuts I got from a hardware store, they are 3/8” x 24 thread lock nuts.)
- Bearing, bearing retainer and axle seal x 2 (Randy’s Ring and Pinion, about $100 with shipping.)
- RTV
- Brake or other high temperature grease
Tools Required:
- Torque wrench
- Metric box wrench set
- Dead blow hammer (Only if your rotors are stuck)
- Spring hook tool
- C clamp
Torque Values:
- Caliper bolts – 11 ft/lb
- Lug nuts – 85 – 115 ft/lb
 | After removing the wheels compress the caliper using a C clamp, this will make removing and installing the caliper easier. |
 | Remove the caliper bolts then remove the caliper by pulling at the bottom perpendicular to the axle. Use a zip tie to secure the caliper so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose. |
 | With the caliper out of the way remove the rotor, if it’s stuck you can use a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to provide some persuasion. |
 | Remove the spring using the spring hook tool. Next remove the adjuster and the two hold down clips. |
 | Remove the return spring, then the parking brake shoes by pulling them away perpendicular to the axle. |
 | Remove the retaining plate nuts, as you can see mine were coated in differential lube where the axle seal failed.
Pull firmly on the end of the axle shaft and it should pull out, the bearing race may stay in the end of the axle housing, you should be able to pull it out by hand. |
 | Clean up the brake parts with degreaser and brake cleaner, be sure not to get any breaker cleaner on any of the painted or rubber parts. |
 | I took my shafts to a machine shop and had them remove the bearing retainer and bearing and install the new parts.
If you have a drill press the bearing retainer can be removed by drilling a 3/8” hole in the retainer then using a chisel to crack and remove the retainer.
The bearing can be removed using a splitter and shop press. |
 | Put a thin coat of axle grease on the inner surface of the seal before installing it on the axle shaft.
Before installing the axle shaft put a thin coating of RTV on the axle seal to help ensure a leak free seal. |
| | During assembly be sure to lube the caliper bolts and anti-rattle clips with brake or high temperature grease. |
Honda Ridgeline Door Lock Actuator Replacement
My passenger side door lock died a slow death and finally stopped working, after picking up the service manual on eBay I decided to give repairing the lock myself a go. This procedure is for the passenger side door, the driver side will be similar but not identical because of the lock cylinder.
Parts Required:
- Passenger side door lock actuator 72115-SDA-A01
- Driver side door lock actuator 72155-SDA-A01
Tools Required:
- Trim pad remover (I picked one up at Sears for $8)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat head screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
 | Lower window glass fully then remove the mirror mount cover by pulling at the top and lifting up. |
 | Pull back the inner handle and push in on the notch at the bottom, this will pop out the cover. |
 | Remove the 2 bolts holding the inner handle then remove the handle. |
 | On the backside of the inner handle is the inner handle cable, rotate the blue cable latch 90 degrees and then remove the cable latch head and pull out on the green retainer. |
 | Remove the pull pocket lid then remove the phillips screw. |
 | Remove the 3 screws behind the inner door handle. |
 | Now remove the 8 trim pad clips with the trim pad remover tool. Once all 8 pads are removed start with the back of door panel and pull upward, be sure not to use too much force.
The door panel should come off without too much effort, once it does unplug the door switch harness and courtesy light plug. |
| | Raise window glass fully and pull away the white plastic sheet starting with the end by the lock, only pull it back halfway. |
 | With the plastic sheet our of the way remove the glass channel retainer bolt, then remove the retainer by pulling down until it is completely off the rubber channel. |
 | Disconnect the outer handle rod, first rotate the plastic retainer clip 90 degrees then pull the rod out. |
 | Remove the screw securing the lock knob and the 2 clips holding the inner handle cable. |
 | Detach the actuator connectors and cable clip. |
 | Remove the 3 screws holding the latch and remove the latch through the hole in the door. |
 | The latch mechanism. |
 | Remove the plastic access cover to allow access to the lock actuator. |
 | Once the access cover is removed you can see the lock actuator and the screw that holds it in place. |
 | Rotate the purple retainer clip and remove the door lock cable, next remove the actuator retainer screw. |
 | Now that disassembly is complete install the new actuator and reassemble the door. |
NP200 Transfer Case Rebuild
Here is an outline of my rebuild with notes.
Special thanks to Damien Civiello who loaned me the spacer necessary for setting up the idler gear pre load and shared what he learned during his rebuild. His forum post can be found here.
Parts and Supplies Required:
- Power Train manual, I wouldn’t start without it (Hard copy available from Faxon Auto Literature, digital copy available from Military Manuals)
- NP200 Rebuild Kit (TCK-200 from DC Trucks, $255 shipped.)
If you want to buy parts ala cart here are the numbers: - Yoke seals - National 410308 x 4 (Double lip, double case heavy duty), Redi-Sleeve 99212 x 4
- Shift shaft seals – National 6835S x 2, Redi-Sleeve 99076 x 2
- Idler bearings – National 2793 & 2720
- Output shaft bearings – National 3720, 2793, 3780 & 2720
- Low gear roller bearing – National C1960Q
- Output shaft pilot bearing - QBR23549
- Shim Pack (McMaster-Carr, part number 3088A939, the shims included in the rebuild kit doesn’t have all the sizes needed.)
- Anaerobic Gasket Maker (Permatex)
- RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (Permatex, used on the shift shaft seals and to seal the yoke splines to prevent leakage around the shafts.)
- Thread Sealer (Permatex, used on studs that go through to the inside of the transfer case.)
- Mechanics wire, approximately 0.03" (Harbor Freight, stainless so it won't rust.)
- Glyptol (If you plan on blasting the inside this is the sealant to use, $50 from Eastwood.)
- Stainless steel shift shafts (M Series Rebuild, $100 each x 2)
- Hardened hi/low thrust washer (M Series Rebuild, $100)
Tools Required:
- 2 Jaw Puller for removing the yokes.
- Press for bearing removal and bearing/race installation.
- Bearing race and seal driver. (Harbor Freight, the kit doesn’t include a race driver for the larger race in the NP200 so I just ground down one of the old races and used that to seat them.)
- Brass drift. (Harbor Freight, used to drive out the old races.)
- Torque wrench in the 140-160 foot pounds range.
- Torque wrench in the 15-30 inch pounds range. (I bought Park Tool TW-1 $35, cheap and accurate.)
- 1 5/16” socket for removing the slotted yoke nuts.
- Spanner Pin wrench for holding the yokes when tightening the yoke nuts.
- Idler Gear Dummy Shaft (Quad 4x4 sells T2013, it’s useful for removal of the idler shaft but it’s too long to fit in the case when doing the installation, so a socket and extension will work just as well for removal.)
- Spacer for setting idler gear bearing pre load.
NP200 schematic:
| 
 | The case had 55+ years of oil and dirt stuck to it, pressure washing only got it about half way clean. A combination of a putty knife, parts washer and hot water with degreaser finished the job.
This took longer than expected, I’m not sure if there is a better way to remove the dirt and oil. |
 | 2 jaw puller removing output shaft yoke. |
 | |
 | |
 | Input shaft, shift fork and idler gear. |
 | Shift shaft spring and poppet. |
 | Shift fork, you can see the lock wire holding the set bolt in place. |
 | Input shaft. |
 | Shift fork. |
| 
| The two speed clutch gear, inner and outer teeth were fairly chewed up which explained why the shift forks had gouges as the operator would push harder and harder to get the transfer case into hi/low. |
 | Eastwood’s 2 part epoxy primer applied to the cleaned, blasted and cleaned again parts.
The primer sprayed on easily and I was pleased with the results. |
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 | |
 | I used Eastwood’s 2K Chassis Black Satin for the top coat, so far it seems pretty durable. |
 | Assembly begins with installation of the idler gear, then the input shaft as shown on the left. |
 | Output shaft installed. |
 | Removing the installation lip from a Redi-Sleeve, the yoke had a groove worn in it from the original seal, the Redi-Sleeve is stainless steel and provides a perfect sealing surface.
A little anaerobic gasket maker under the sleeve fills the groove so the Redi-Sleeve won’t deform. |
 | |
 | |
 | The mostly finished product. |
M37 Number 3
Sure it’s missing a fuel pump, right front fender, headlight, batteries and windows but that’s original factory paint baby!
M37 Part Numbers
- Radiator Cap 4 lbs. (NAPA 703-1419)
- Thermostat 160 Degree (NAPA 155)
- Oil Filter Housing Flexible Hoses (Eaton 11224)
- Transfer Case Seals (National 410308 x 4, National 470954 x 2, Redi-Sleeves 99212 x 4)
- Inner Axel Seal (National 480630)
- Wheel Cylinder Left (NAPA 3595)
- Wheel Cylinder Right (NAPA 3596)
Fix for iPhone 3G and 3GS activation problems
If your iPhone has been activated through iTunes but still has “No Service” in the upper left hand corner the following may fix the problem.
- Turn your phone on.
- Remove iPhone SIM card using the SIM card removal tool that’s in the black pouch in the iPhone box or a paper clip.
- Wait for “No SIM card installed” message.
- Install SIM card.
You should now be able to use your phone.
Fixing sticky buttons on underwater camera housings
After a while you might find that the buttons on your underwater camera housing are stiff or some of the buttons work fine on the surface but not at all underwater. This guide shows how to remove and lubricate the buttons on your housing which in most cases will fix the problem.
Before trying anything else you should follow the manufacturers recommendations for cleaning your housing, the directions for housings made by Canon can be found here.
Here is a list of the tools you will need to remove the housing buttons:
- Small flat head screwdriver
- Small pair of pliers
- Pick with a dull point
- O-ring lube
|  |
Start by removing the e-clip holding the button mechanism together. The clip can be removed by using a small flat head screwdriver and prying until the clip comes off.
The e-clips have a tendency to fly off, to help prevent the clip from being lost you can place the housing in a clear plastic bag and poke a hole for the screwdriver to fit through.
Note: Some buttons may have a rubber tip on them like the ones shown to the right, the tip can be removed by pulling on it. |  |
| Now remove the button arm that was held in by the clip. |  |
| Not all buttons will have 2 e-clips but this one does, removal of the second is the same as the first one. |  |
Now the button can be easily removed, clean the button shaft with a damp paper towel and inspect it for any corrosion or damage.
If the button shaft shows any signs of damage the entire housing should be returned to the manufacturer for repair. |  |
| Carefully remove the o-ring, here a brass pick that has a dull tip is used to prevent the o-ring from being damaged. |  |
Inspect and clean the o-ring with a damp cloth, as you can see this o-ring was pretty dirty.
Use a damp clean Q Tip to clean the o-ring seat, after cleaning make sure no fibers or other debris is left that could potentially cause a flood. |  |
| Place a small amount of silicone lubricant on your finger and spread it around. |  |
Lubricate the o-ring by rolling it between your fingers.
Once the o-ring is lubricated place it back in the button shaft, be sure that the o-ring is fully seated. |  |
| Installing the e-clip can be a challenge, the easiest method I have found is to use a small pair of pliers, place one jaw on the e-clip, the other on the button shaft and gently squeeze until the clip pops on. |  |
| After assembly it’s a good idea to take the case on a test dive without the camera to be sure there are no leaks. | |